I am in Athens already, and I haven't updated you on anything yet!  Whoopsy daisy!
     Let's see, I live in an apartment with three other girls.  Each of us has a room to ourselves.  Each room has an attached balcony which overlooks the busy streets of Pangrati, the neighborhood in which we live.  This time around in the apartments we have no washer so I have to revert to hand-washing.  I either hand-wash or pay five euros for one load of laundry.  Hand-washing in the bathroom sink it is!
      My room is very spacious, which is a drastic difference from the other places in this apartment.  (see picture below- notice I figured out how to post pictures!  Yay!)  Where the bedrooms are spacious, the kitchen and "living space" are tiny!  The kitchen can fit one person and the living space consists of a skinny hallway with a couch.  This place certainly has a lot of character and charm -  minus the creepy 60s playboy women stickers stuck to the mirror  :-)  The balcony is large enough to fit a table and chairs, and many times I have gone out there to work on homework or even update this blog, such as right now :-)
    I sit out here, listen to the sound of vespas buzzing by, sip Greek wine, and snack on feta and olives and bread and olive oil.  And yes, my pinky is up as I sip wine ;-)  La ti da.
     I arrived here super late on a Friday night.  That weekend I just relaxed and made myself home in the apartment and explored the neighborhood.  I found the nearby grocery store and people watched- one of my favorite things to do.
     During our orientation, our entire study abroad group was split up into teams for a scavenger hunt.  Finally I could get my feet wet in the waters of Athens!  We found Syntagma Square, watched the changing of the guards in front of Parliament, walked down Ermou street (the hoity toity fashion lane), and found the flea markets. The streets are very busy here, but it's a different kind of busy from Rome.  The people on the streets in Rome always seemed like they were in a hurry.  Here, there are a LOT of people in the main streets, but they are lazily walking about in no rush at all.
      Anyhoots.  Classes.  We started our first class day with Language and Culture of Greece -yikes!  This class will be the death of me!  Classes here are two hours long, so the first hour we spend learning about culture-this part I find fascinating, and the second hour we spend on....dun dun dun... language.  We learn everything from politics to family roles and how families here function for the culture part.
     Families here in Greece are much closer than in the U.S., so I have learned.  Lida, my professor, explained that it is not unusual for Greeks to live at home until their upper thirties-  the reason mainly being high living expenses.  Lida said one of her own sons (35 years old) is still living at home, and this, too, is for financial reasons.  She told us another example of Greek life, in that if a child has moved out of their home but goes back to his or her parents to ask for financial help, the parents will help BUT will do so for a price! -the price being that they will invade upon their child's personal business.  They will invite themselves over to their son or daughter's home and criticize anything and everything.  Lida said she had to ask for help from her parents once, and her mother came over and criticized the arrangement of her furniture.  Pretty funny.  Pretty "My Big Fat Greek Wedding" if you ask me!  But no worries, for Windex solves all problems!  Actually, according to my Theology professor, this movie is really very accurate about Greek life.
     Also in Language and Culture class, I have been on walking tours throughout Athens where Lida has shown us the best places to buy groceries, the best places to get a glass of wine, the best places to buy candies, the best place to buy sweets and baked goods, and the best places for groceries.  She showed us a bakery which sells frappes for only one Euro.  I find them to actually be quite good, even though they are made with instant coffee.  (This brings me to another topic-Greek coffee.  It tastes like normal coffee until you reach the bottom of your mug where there lies "mud."  You don't want to eat the "mud" for it is a nasty mush of coffee grounds.
Lida also showed us the best chocolate shop where we can buy baklava.  Oh my goodness.  Baklava is so good!.  Man I must sound like a pig the amount I am talking about food on here, but hey!  Who doesn't enjoy good food?   This intro into Greek Culture is only the first hour of class.
     The second hour is dedicated to language.  Yikes!  Actually having to learn Greek brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "It's all Greek to me!"  The letters aren't even letters!  They're symbols!  I am practically reading hieroglyphics!  What. is. going. on.??? I challenge you to read a sentence written in a new alphabet where the letter 'y' is actually pronounced as a 'g,' a 'v' is pronounced as a 'n,' an 'n' is pronounced as an 'i', and a triangle is a letter.  Not so easy!  To go from from learning the alphabet to reading words to understanding what the words mean is no easy task, and Lida has no patience to slow down.  At the pace we are going, I will be fluent by the end of the semester.  Fluent or dead.

    After Greek, we were introduced to art history with Anne.  Anne is such a fun professor.  She takes us to museums, introduces us to sculptures, and actually encourages us to get out and experience the clubbing, partying, and nightlife of the Greeks.

     Why, last weekend we all went to Delphi where I saw more gorgeous ruins amidst an even more spectacular landscape of mountains, hills, and lakes between the mountains.  It was yet another Heaven on Earth.  The town itself was very quaint.  There were so many elderly women wearing babushkas and long black skirts.  My favorite view in Delphi was the view from above the theater.  It overlooked the ruins of the ancient city- columns columns columns!  In the evening the entire group gathered for a dinner made for us by the owners of the hotel where we stayed.  We had a traditional Greek meal made for us.  It started with bread and olive oil, then a Greek Salad, then a Cinnamony Chicken thigh along with some buttered noodles, and for dessert some fresh orange slices.

     Hmmmm....Let's see....We've also been to the National Museum and the Acropolis Museum.  We've learned about Korai and Kore, Dypilon Vases, Sphynx, Temples, Amazons, Pottery, Phaloxes, Pediments, and Medusas.....Yes, I did just look through my notes to list those names :-)  Athenian artwork is very different from the artworks we looked at in Rome.  In Rome we looked at incredibly intricate paintings.  Here, we look at simpler works of art, such as ancient statues and columns.  They are simple and very beautiful!
   
     Then History.  History class is incredible!  My professor Robert Pitt is British, has a very funny dry sense of humor, and just listening to his vocabulary during lecture is enough to entertain me, if not for the subject matter.  He uses words such as blokes, chaps, higgledy piggledy, jolly, and cup o' tea.
     Then Theology.  My professor is a Byzantine Priest, meaning he is Greek Orthodox.  Our class is based upon the differences between the Eastern and Western Churches......this is me deciding whether or not to give you a lesson on the differences..Now this is me deciding that I will save that for another post.  I fear it would be too long.  I'll save that for when finals draw nearer and, through posting, I also am studying :-)....this is me telling you that Father Stefanos is an awesome professor.  He makes class very interesting with field trips to Greek Orthodox Churches and classroom discussions during which we can openly ask questions about the Eastern Church.
     Let's see...what else can I tell you...The first time I went to get gyros was during our first week.  I ordered a chicken gyro - to die for!!!! With its warm and soft and slightly crispy pita, juicy hot chicken, cool refreshing fresh tomatoes and onions, and the best creamy tzatziki sauce ever I was in Heaven.  I was so stuffed!
     After eating gyros, we all - Emma, Sam, Kendall, Max, John, Emilie, and I- decided to stop at a little wine shop.  We had noticed this shop containing various barrels of wine, so we thought it necessary to check it out, and boy were we in for an experience!  We walked in and a man named George greeted us.  He was an elderly man who seemed, well, a bit out of it.  He offered Sam a glass of wine.  We thought of it as being a glass of wine for all of us to share to taste, but George proceeded to pull out more glasses and fill them up.  Soon, each one of us had a full glass of wine in our hands.  Then George sat down and talked to us.   He asked us who we are, what we are doing in Greece, where we want to go, etc etc.  When one person finished his glass of wine, George pointed at Sam and told him, "Give everything to everyone," by which he meant for Sam to pour more glasses of wine.  So Sam did.
     George then invited us all to sit at a large dining room table in the back of his shop.  So we did.  He went upstairs and came down with a bowl of olives and a pitcher which he placed in front of us.  He told us that the olives were from Crete and "Crete is Crete."  Yeah, I know.  I don't get it either... He handed the pitcher over to John and told John to "Do it, " meaning to fill the pitcher and then refill everyone's glasses with wine.  When we asked more about the olives and Crete, he went upstairs again and came down with more olives of different kinds and cheese and bread.  This time the Olives were aged, and I cannot imagine they were cheap.  He said the cheese was from Crete, and boy was it nummy.  He was incredibly generous, likely incredibly drunk, and we talked about Greece.  He did not make much sense in how he spoke.  When he did speak, he seemed to take on the voice of a philospher.  I tell, Greeks sure like philosophy;-) He gave us his words of wisdom saying, "Life is life," "Life is love" "Crete is Crete," "Give everything to everyone."  A wise man this George character is.
     Every time the pitcher went dry, he told John to "do it."  We had to have been there for at least 2 to 3 hours, and George wouldn't let us go!  He said he had more food for us, and we insisted that we were stuffed.  We really were!  We just ate gyros for pete's sake! But then he got upset that we interrupted him and told us, "You must listen before you speak."  He then went upstairs despite our begging and came down with a dish of hot peas and lamb.  This ended up being quite the feast for which we all showed major gratitude, and since we did not want to offend him, we ate it all.  We ended up buying some wine to bring back with us, but not before we met his friend Mario who he called to come over and meet us.  When Mario arrived, George greeted him calling him, "Mafia!"  Ha!  What?!  This was a crazy cool experience.
     Greeks are so very hospitable.  "Give everything to everyone" really is applied in Greece.  Here, you really get a lot of bang for your buck.  Gyros are giant!  Restaurant experiences are made very special.  People really go out of their way in Greece to make you feel welcome.  People here are genuinely generous and kind, and to many Greeks, like George, it is the company of friends which makes him rich.

Hmm...what else...

Just last week I attended a riot in Syntagma Square.  After class Wednesday, November 7, I went to A sandal shop called Meliffinos' Sandals.  They are also known as "poet sandals."  I went there with Bethani and Emilie, so we could all buy some sandals of course.  This sandal-buying was an experience in and of itself.  The sandal shop has been around for forever and passed down generation to generation.  They have customized sandals for famous actors and singers such as John Lennon, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Bob Saget.  They are called "poet sandals," because the original shoe-maker wrote and read his own poetry.  I walked into this tiny shop with sandal-covered walls and pointed at a pair I liked.  A man grabbed the pair and laced them on my feet.  Then he fiddled with them and tightened them around my feet.  He then took them back to his shop and hammered away.  After this shop, we all went on a hunt for different sandals, since Bethani did not find any she liked.  We wandered through Monastiraki Square when we noticed a large group gathering at the center of Monastiraki holding one giant banner and a few picket fence signs.  At this moment they were just standing, not yet chanting, but they were just standing, gathering, and readying themselves for a march down Ermou Street leading into Syntagma Square, where the eventual large riot would take place.  At this time it is around 5 p.m. and we began to walk back to our apartment.  In order to do so, we must go through Syntagma.  As we walked down Ermou Street, the large group followed us holding up their banner and signs and chanting something in Greek.  They were not obnoxiously loud and certainly not the barbarians as they are depicted in U.S. news.  When  we got to Syntagma Square, we noticed many more groups gathered in the center holding up more banners.  They were not loud.  There were just a lot of them.  They were simply conversing with one another as they gathered in front of the Parliament Building.  The only chanting came from the groups with banners who were marching to meet up with this large group.  Otherwise, the crowd was just that.  It was a crowd of people chit-chatting.  I went back to the apartment to drop off all my things and headed straight back to the "riot" in front of Syntagma.  When we got back, nothing had changed except there were ten times as many people as before.  It was funny to look around and see street vendors among this crowd.  They were selling souvlaki, drinks, and masks (the white masks you see painters and woodworkers wear).  It was just a massive crowd.  It was a crowd gathering to demonstrate their views.  It was a demonstration that existed because these people had the democratic freedom to demonstrate.  It was so cool to see this demonstration, especially on the day after another day of democracy back in the U.S- the elections.
     Overall, the "riot" was rather peaceful as much as I saw.  It was almost like a festival with all the vendors. It got to be close to 7 p.m. and time to leave since I had a cooking class to attend.  Walking away from Syntagma I saw a few men wearing black gas masks and I heard a big "boom!"  As I walked back toward the school, it began to POUR rain!  I was dripping wet by the time I made it to the school.  Then the cooking class commenced.
     First we made baked feta with tomato and peppers- man was that tasty!  Then we glanced over at the TV screen at CNN News, and there was Syntagma Square on the screen.  Only it was up in flames and sitting in a cloud of smoke.  WHAT!!?? We were just there!

     I learned later on from my art history professor that we left at the perfect time.  She says that as soon as you start seeing men in black masks, you leave.  She has a theory that the Greek government has some sort of deal going with these men in black to spread the tear gas in order to disperse the crowd.  I also find it super interesting that there are cameramen out and about during the peaceful part of the riot with their cameras turned off.  They only begin to roll their cameras when the Molotov cocktails explode.  Huh.
     I am not sure how things are set on fire or by whom, but when I was at the riot it was nothing like what I saw on TV.  It was crazy to watch it on TV and see exactly where I was standing now engulfed in smoke.  I saw a booth in front of Costa Coffee (where I grabbed java earlier that day) up in flames.  Jeepers!
     What a day!  Here I was soaking wet in the safety of the cooking class, and there's where I was right on that TV screen.
     So.  Cooking class. It was awesome.  I learned how to make baked feta, dill chopped salad, Biftecka and potatoes with lemon.  For dessert, our chef made us baklava.  For beverage, white wine.  It was delicious to say the least.  Ask, and I'll make it for you!
     Then it was back through the pouring rain to the apartment.  When I got back, I found out from Bethani via facebook that another girl from cooking class got tear gassed on her way to the apartment, which was strange because she walks the same route as me to her apartment.  When  asked her, she told me a gust of wind must have carried it.  Wow.  What a day!
   
10-11-2012

      I am now leaving Santorini, which is (surprise surprise) gorgeous!  We arrived at our hotel, Dana Villas, around 4 p.m. and all of us were astounded, struck with awe, blown away by where we were.  The sea could not have been bluer.  The buildings were all white with blue shutters and blue painted domes.  Our hotel was basically one giant terrace.  Each room had a large terrace with white beach chairs over-looking the sea.  Our hotel was situated in the middle of Fira, the town in the center of the island.  Everything about Santorini was incredible.  Frankly, words nor pictures do the place justice.
     Around five o'clock, the sun set.  It was absolutely breath-taking.  Then all the girls headed out for dinner at a taverna in Fira.  I shared a plate of souvlaki with Ana as well as an appetizer of grilled feta and a dessert, which the waiter brought us for free.  Like I was saying earlier, people in Greece are so hospitable!!! "Give everyone everything" applies everywhere in Greece.

     The next morning I went downstairs for the best breakfast of my life - scrambled eggs, sausage, super thick Greek yogurt with honey, a piece of zucchini with cream cheese and smoked salmon, grilled peppers,  a tiny chocolate-filled croissant, and a Greek bruschetta salad.  After breakfast, Max, Emilie, and I took off for a hike from Fira to Oia.  On the way, we stopped and explored a little island jutting out from Fira and wandered around there for a while.  We climbed rocks, we threw rocks, we walked, and we talked.  From there we continued our walk toward Fira and picked up a doggie pal along the way.  This dog led us all the way from Fira to Oia.  We named her Stella, and she was great company for our three hour hike.
     When we got to Oia, we walked around, we soaked in the sights, we saw the famous windmill that has been photographed so much, we found an isolated restaurant with tables with an incredible view of the sunset.  Oia was deserted!  There were barely any open restaurants or people walking around.  At the isolated restaurant, we climbed up to the rooftop terrace.  There, we pulled out wine and chocolate and watched the sunset.  It was my own personal honeymoon.  After sunset, we walked around, took pictures, and eventually found a place that sold gyros.   We took a tax back to our hotel where we relaxed in the hotel room and planned out the next day.
     The next morning, we awoke, ate another fabulous breakfast, and headed out.  We walked to the port where we rode a donkey up to the top of a hill.  Then we took a taxi to a horse ranch where we rode horses from the countryside to the seaside.  The man who owned the horse ranch took us out on our horse adventure.  We chatted a while about Greece's culture and politics.  Along the seaside, however, everyone on horseback was silent.  It was too beautiful.

 

My time in Rome has sadly come to an end, but with this end comes a new beginning.  Now I am in Athens!

Finals finally finished Friday (alliterations. teehee.) in Rome.  After packing up my bags, I hit the road to meet my Mom and brother. Here's the journal entry I wrote that day:

10-19-2012

I now sit in Hotel Stella anxiously awaiting the arrival of Mom and Mike.  I sit here planning out what we will do when they arrive.  It's already coming on night-time, so we shall see beautiful Rome at night! Ah!  I just heard Mom's voice! Ahhh! Now I wait for her and Mike to enter!!!  This is so unreal!!! So unreal!!!  OK Laura, get a hold of yourself,  It's only your mom and brother.  In Italy.  It isn't that big of a deal or anything.  Bah!  Who am I kidding!? 

Then they entered the door.
Yeah, I wasn't excited at all as you can tell....

The next journal entry:

10-26-2012

Now I am in a plane about to take off for Athens.  Mom and Mike's visit was so so so great.  It really could not have been better.  We spent the first couple of days in Rome.  They arrived at the hotel a little late, after getting lost from the station to the hotel. I don't blame them.  It's an easy thing to do in Roma. But hey!  It's something you just gotta do.  You gotta get lost in Roma.  I mean it was one of my favorite activities-I always got lost!   So Mom and Mike started off with a bang! :P  (I should have told them that in Rome the street signs are not on signs but on the corners of buildings. Oops.  They learned that the hard way.)
    They walked into the hotel room pooped after walking around for a long time lugging around their luggage. It was definitely time for some wine and relaxation.  After taking a load off,we took off from the hotel to do a little nighttime sightseeing.  We started at the Spanish Steps and mingled for a bit.  From there we went to find food. We ended up at a restaurant I'd been dying to try.  I had passed it many times before and was drawn by how cute it was-tucked away on a hidden street with sparkling strings of lights around the tiny outdoor seating area.  I ordered Spaghetti A'lmentracia, which is a spaghetti with a spicy tomato sauce and bacon.  Yumm.  It was just so good to enjoy good food and enjoy it with family.
     From there we wandered around Rome a bit and ordered uno piccolo coni di Gelato from one of my favorite Gelaterias selling 150 flavors of gelato.  My favorite mix of flavors are pistacchio (pronounced as piss-tack-yo)and hazelnut (Nocciola). We took our gelato and savored it in front of the Pantheon.  
    There really is nothing like seeing Rome at night.  The Pantheon was one of my favorite places to spend my nights in Rome.  There are plenty of places to sit and people-watch.  You can grab a seat at one of the many restaurants or simply sit on the stairs surrounding the fountain in the center of the Piazza, or square.
    The next morning we went downstairs to enjoy a typical Italian breakfast of rolls and croissants, nutella, cappuccino, and yogurt.  Italians aren't big on breakfasts, but it was still nummy none-the-less.  I called over my friend Max to join us and help me show them around.  I am so glad he did, because I was then able to find places without a map.  Believe it or not, I still had to pull out my map towards the end of my time in Italy.  There are just too many streets!

    We then took off.  We started off with a view from the top of the building known as the "Wedding Cake."  From the top it offers spectacular views of the city.  From there we toured through the Roman Forum and saw the Colosseum. 

 Max and I took on the voice of our history professor Jan as we played tour guide through the Forum.  

We then went to the Vatican to see the Sistine Chapel.  The chapel was closed, so we instead wandered through St. Peter's Basilica.  Gorgeous!  I personally like seeing the Basilica more than the Sistine Chapel, so I am glad we got to see that. 

 After the Vatican, we went back to the hotel to freshen up before another night walk.  We started off at the Trevi Fountain. 
---I had to make sure Mom and Mike's eyes were closed before they were right in front of it. Ya just gotta get the full woah!-effect:-)--- 

    Then we walked to Piazza Navona, the art square.  This is where artists gather during the day and sell paintings and drawings and the like.  In Piazza Navona we ate dinner outside.  From there we walked to the Pantheon to sip wine at another little outdoor restaurant.  

After the Pantheon Mom and Mike experienced bus 62 which was crammed just as it usually is and just how it should be.  I took them to my neck of the woods where I lived in Rome and where I shopped for groceries.  Then it was "Buonanotta Roma!"  To bed we went.

   

 The next day we were off to Cinque Terre! (I should mention that Cnque Terre is a town of five fishing villages and hey are famous for their fantastic fish)



We stayed in Levanto, a little town right outside Cinque Terre, at Villa Margherita B&B.  Super cute!  It was high on a hill in the midst of colorful buildings and a castle, and it was surrounded with gardens and beach chairs.  It was enchanting!  We arrived a little late in Villa Margherita after getting locked in an elevator and other typical set-backs that us Jellingers like to have.  When we got there, we went to the beach. But first, vino! We stopped at an "Enoteca," or wine shop, where we picked up some tasty Tuscan wine. I brought with me some wine glasses as well as Max's wine aerator.  Believe it or not, it actually does make the wine taste better!  We carried the wine down to "my spot," where I had spent some time during my pre-travel in Levanto.  We sipped, we savored, we joked, we sat silently in awe of the view- the lights which glowed on the other side of the beach and twinkled off the water.  We talked about how fantastic life would be to live here.  We called Max on the phone, because he was out and about at his hostel and was trying to find us.  He came back with a recommendation from some people he met at the hostel for a great restaurant for fish and for pesto.  Cinque Terre is known for their pesto and fresh fish. Mom and I shared a pasta with pesto and some sort of fresh-from-the-ocean fish.  Both so yummy.
    The next morning we woke up, ate breakfast (of freshly baked croissants and pastries, cappuccini [the plural for cappuccino], meats and cheeses, fruit, and yogurt), and headed back to our room to pack.  It was bittersweet leaving the place-it had a super comfy and luxurious bed, a large bathroom with the best shower I think I have ever taken, a vanity table, and a bidet (sp?).  Of course it had a bidet.  Everywhere in Europe has bidets! Then we went out to explore the lands!  off to Monterosso we go! We planned on hiking the "lover's walk" from Monterosso to Riomaggiore.  


We arrived in the town, hopped off the train, and Mom of course made friends with an American woman we ran into.  My mom has a way of making everyone her friend, of making everyone fall in love with her and feel so loved that I so admire.  I can't go anywhere without this happening I swear!  When we go to Ely, men hit on her.  When we go to coffee shops, we always seem to run into someone she knows and seems to be best friends with.
    Anyhoots, we were then given word by this American that the "lover's walk" was closed due to landslides.  We walked to the start of the walk just to be sure, but sure enough the trail was closed.  Luckily we happened upon a little cafe wine bar which overlooked the coast and colorful buildings of the town.  Of course we stopped.  Of course Mom and I split a half liter of wine.  Of course Mike ordered a beer, and of course all of us had an amazing time relaxing, sipping wine, and taking in yet another breathtaking view.  Mike and I even played Foosball and I got my patooty handed to me.


    From there, we hopped back onto a train to Levanto to pick up our things and head out.  Off to Firenze (Florence)!  
     We got there quick and easy.  It was smooth sailing.....Ha!  If only that were true. When we arrived in Florence it was around 8:15 or so.  The place where we'd pick up our rental car closed at 8.  We were too late, so we had to go to another car rental place where we picked up a car.  Luckily, this place gave us an automatic car.  It would have certainly been interesting had we gotten the manual.  Oh boy!  I can't even imagine! We picked up the car and plugged into the GPS the address of the agriturismo we would stay at.  Finally we got to the agriturismo and lived happily ever after.  
    Not so much.  First, we drove toward a town we thought would get us to the place, but then we realized we actually had no idea where the place was.  We had an address plugged in, but was it the right one?  Oh Boy!  There we were, driving in a foreign land.  In Florence for pete's sake!  Rick Steve's says Florence is a city where no one should ever drive, since Florence drivers are nuts!  Go Mama! We pulled over after having driven through some crazy streets with crazy drivers and found the "correct" address.  We followed our GPS which led us to a loooong gravel road. It was bumpy which made our rental car bottom out multiple times over again.  We kept going and going along this gravel road.  We were in nowhereland among vineyards when we decided to turn around and just find a place to sleep.  By this time it is about midnight.
     We hadn't eaten since breakfast, so while I was zonked out and sleeping in the back of the car, Mom and Mike searched for an open restaurant but to no avail.  Now it was time to find a place to sleep. We finally happened upon a hotel near Florence.  They were able to take us last minute and were so kind and accommodating.  We asked the concierge if there were any open restaurants and he told us no.  He offered to us instead some of the breakfast food that they serve at breakfast time.  He brought out to us our own little breakfast buffet - an entire fruit tart, crackers and nutella, yogurt, apples.  We brought it all to our hotel room where we could finally stretch our legs and toast to the long and adventurous day.  We researched the agriturismo only to discover that the address on their website was wrong.  When we researched it we were so excited to go since the pictures online made the place look like another Heaven on Earth.
    The next day, we made our way to the agriturismo.  We found it!  When we turned our car into it, we saw that the place was deserted.  The only face to see was a little old man peering through the window staring at us.  We got out of the car, and this man came out to greet us, only he did not speak a lick of English.  We told him our names and he showed us our room, however he kept trying to tell us something which we just couldn't respond to.  It was...an experience to say the least.  Even with my little Italian language knowledge I had absolutely no clue what he was trying to tell us.  We brought our things to the room.  We were a bit discombobulated and surprised by the place. We did not have an amazing view like we thought we would.  Our room faced another building.  The pool was covered and closed.  The place just didn't feel right.  We dropped off our things and decided to head into town to discuss what to do.  We drove and decided that this place just wasn't quite right.  It was time to find a new place.  A place with a view.  Easy peasy, right?  I mean this place is packed with amazing views!  Well....it was not so easy.  We stopped at one place-a restaurant with a hotel that had a nice view, but it wasn't amazing.  It was just okay.  We were in Italy, and frankly we weren't going to settle with so-so.  We drove towards the city of Florence and passed by a sign for Agriturismo Montereggi.  I told Mom to turn around so we could check it out.  We did just that.
    We turned around and entered Tuscan wonderland.  Olive groves surrounded the car as we drove up.  An elderly couple came to greet us when we arrived at the entrance. 




 We asked if they had openings and they said that they did. They were just about to give a tour to another group of travelers of the agriturismo when they said to follow them for the tour as well. We hopped back in the car, and followed behind.  We drove uphill through many olive trees- gorgeous- and ended up at the place.  Wow.  The view.  Mind blowing.  It was more than anyone could ask for.  It overlooked the hillside of Tuscany- complete with the tall pointy evergreens which I have dreamed about.  We overlooked vineyards and olive groves.  We overlooked small villages and tiny tuscan homes.  This place was Heaven.  This place was the place.



 We stayed here for the next two nights.  It was enchanting.  Italy is enchanting and more than I could have ever dreamed.



 This time with Mom and Mike is more than I could have ever dreamed.  


A dream come true.  I have always dreamed of coming to Tuscany- I've read about it, I've cooked the dishes from it, and I've dreamed about it over coffee with Mom.  Only now that dream has become a reality.  We traveled into Fiesole that night and ate at a restaurant called Perseus.  Awesome restaurant!  It had both a rustic and warm feeling.  




    The next day to Florence we go! 



 Mom and Mike experienced haggling in the main market which sells leather goods for cheap prices, that is if you know how to play with prices.  Mike was already a pro after buying sunglasses from a vendor in Rome.  The vendor wanted 25 Euro for a pair of sunglasses, but Mike brought it down to 3 Euro and 10 cents.  We had fun shopping and sightseeing, and eating the best panino (sandwich) in the world in Florence.  Florence is the town famous for meat, so I hope Mike got his fix :-)  We stopped at a store to pick up wine and cheese and meat to bring back to the agriturismo with us which we enjoyed under the stars.  Under the Tuscan moon- what a place to be!

 
   Again it was very bittersweet to leave Tuscany, but Rome called us back home.  We arrived back in Rome fairly early on Thursday in hopes to see the Sistine Chapel before it closed.  When we got there, however, it was closed. I guess it was just not meant to be that we see the chapel.  I guess it just means that we will have to go back to Roma Mama.  Darn. 
   It was time to treat ourselves to gelato- this time at my other favorite Gelateria called Giolitti.  Yummy yum yum.


  


     That night we concluded our stay in Rome with a glass of wine and a toast to our time together.  Thanks Mom and Mike for the best time.  It was a dream come true.

      Now off to Athens!

Tonight is my last night in this cozy little yellow-walled apartment.  I now sit at a table in the upstairs apartment sipping wine and, well, blogging while everyone else either packs or cleans.  Everyone from my apartment is all packed and cleaned or are already gone, so I am upstairs in one of the apartments I have come to know so well throughout these 7 weeks.  I have loved coming up here to spend time with the guys studying, sipping wine, cooking, sharing stories, planning skydiving adventures, telling jokes, watching Andy make inappropriate ice sculptures out of giant chunks of  ice from the freezer, just having a really great time, and living la vita bella.
I am very sad to be done here. I have come to fall in love with Italy, so these next seven weeks I am in Greece will be a challenge, but at least it's only seven weeks.  Then I can come back, find myself my own little farmhouse out in the country and enjoy this Italian life of slow food, golden sunsets, and beautiful Italian natural landscape.  Oh, you didn't know?  I'm moving to Italy.  I guess I left out that teensy detail.  Oops. Yep, you'll never ever see me again.  I live here now.   I will ever come back.  I am now Italian. So....Arrivederci!  ;-)
I sit here now and soak in the sounds and everything this place has to offer.  The sound of the streets are one of the aspects I will remember the most.  No matter how quiet the apartment is, it never really is completely quiet.  Their are always cars whizzing by, random cars honking their horns, and once in a while about every half hour an ambulance or fire truck siren rings loud and clear.  I have become used to sleeping with earplugs.
To commemorate the final night, our school, CEA, provided for us an "Aperitivo," a light dinner and drink.  We toasted to a fabulous time in Rome and to a fabulous time to be had in Greece.  To be honest, I have not given much thought to Greece.  I really do not know what to expect other than riots and more ruins.  I am sure it will be one heck of a time, but I go there with no expectations.  I have been so focused on Italy this entire time and preparing for the arrival of my mother and Mike in Italy that Greece has seemed so distant. I have my plane ticket booked from Rome to Athens but that is about the extent of my Grecian endeavors.  I go with no expectation, so I hope to be pleasantly surprised....apparently the lunches are delicious...
So Mom and Mike fly in tomorrow at around 4:30.  Boy are they in for one heck of a time!  Today I had my final final in Theology.  Finally!  This week has been a killer week.  On this program, my grade relies solely on that of my final.  We never have papers, worksheets, or anything else throughout the semester, so there is a lot of pressure during finals week.  How Study Abroad works: 6 weeks of vacation to one week of death. Then 7 weeks of vacation, and again one week of death.  Week of death is over.  I did my best.  We'll see how it goes.  Now here's to seven more weeks of vacation, and I see no better way to spend it than with Mumsy and Mike.  Mamma mia!  I'm so excited to see 'em.

Rome, the most beautiful city in the world.  Rome, the eternal city.  Rome, the city of love.  Whatever you call it, Rome is my home for six more weeks.  So far, this is a wonderful place to call home.

     We've been here for nine days now.  The first night all 30 of us gathered together in one person's apartment (ruh-roh!) where we danced, sipped some vino, played some games, and had the police called on us for making too much noise :-/  A few other nights, we've simply spent relaxed time with one another playing cards and other games.  I am afraid Grandma Ro would be disappointed that I did not nuke everyone in the games like she would have.  Soon, Grandma!  I just learned how to play cribbage and a few other games, so I am just getting the hang of rules.  I've got her charm on my wrist, which only reminds me to step up my game:-)  It's good to know she is here with me.

     Classes started yesterday.  Last week was full of orientations- for academics, for our apartment, for the neighborhood, and for Rome.  We also had a small tour of Rome, during which I got to see the Pantheon, La Fontana di Trevi,  e la Piazza di Spagna. We saw many other sights of which I forget the names.  What I do remember is that everything is beautiful.  I do not think that anything can beat the beauty of ancient ruins, ancient buildings, paintings, wine, men, chocolate, gelato, and so much more.  No.  I know nothing can beat it.

     The day we had our tour I also had my first taste of delicious delicious gelato.  My favorite flavors so far: Nutella and Amarena.  Amarena is a super creamy vanilla that has a syrup of sour cherries mixed in.  Nutella is, well, nutella!  What's not to love?

    Anyhoots, it's been fun shopping for groceries.  I have no idea what I am buying half the time since it's all in Italian......

(the above post is actually a draft I saved from a while ago.  I suppose I could finally post it, though)

9/11/2012

Wow, I have been so terrible at keeping up with blogging!  To fill you in, classes are just about in full swing.  I have had four out of my five total classes thus far.  Theology does not start until Thursday, so I am not sure what that class will entail.  The classes I have had are Italian language, art history, study abroad seminar, and history.  I love how many of the classes are "on site," meaning I get to go somewhere for class.  For this reason, class does not feel like class at all!  Today for example I went to the Colloseum, Palazzo Venezzia, Basilica di Messenzio, Campo di Fiori, and Palazzo della Cancelleria.  Paolo, the professor, is so excited about everything he shows us and teaches us which makes the class that much more enjoyable.  He appreciates the special attention artists pay to the formation of a statue's buttocks :-)

I have only had two history classes so far, and they have both taken place inside the classroom.  Tomorrow we go somewhere "on site".  Location: I forget.  No, "I forget" is not Italian.  The professor is, once again, excited about what he teaches and shares with us as much information as he knows.  This is both good and bad.  It is good for the fact that I am learning a LOT.  It is bad for the fact that I do not know what is necessary to memorize.  He tells us many facts, many dates, and many names, and he articulates every. single. word.   Every. single. word. seems to be very. important.  I do not mean to make it sound like he doesn't make class fun, because he does make it fun.  He picks on students- teasing about their major, memorizing names, making sure we are alive and paying attention.  My name is no longer "Laura" but rather "Jellinger." 

Seminar class is the most relaxed class out of them all. Chuck is the kindest professor and sincerely cares about each student.  He is cool, calm, and collected.  He recently retired from teaching biology, and I can tell he wans to continue teaching it, since he teaches it to us.  He has us reading a fantastic award-winning book called "Guns, Germs, and Steel," and whenever there is a part in the book remotely biological Chuck stands up and gives us a lesson.  He's great :-)  Our typical class day (so far) is that we go to class, we sit in a chair in a circle, we chit-chat about our latest endeavors (weekend activities, other classes), and we then discuss the book.  I highly enjoy Chuck and his class.

The final class, Italian, is most likely my favorite.  I wouldn't be surprised if it were everyone's favorite since we have a very entertaining professor!  We all attempt to imitate how Mario says, "Oh My God," but I am afraid it is a Mario-ism no one can imitate.  Here, I'll spell it out for you and you can try:  "oh may Go-dt!" :-)  Haha, how did that work for ya?  I will never forget our first class when Mario asked us if anyone knew Italian, and everyone said "no."  His reply was, "sure ya do!  You know spaghetti, right? And fettuccini, and lasagna." Mario is very happy and energetic and makes learning Italian very fun.  So far in Italian, I know the alhabet, numbers, and traditional conversation : "what is your name: Come ti chiami?, How are you:  Come stai?, I'm well, and you?: Sto bene, e tu?" 

I am afraid I am going to have to cut this blog entry short.  Oh wait!  Mike, I've wanted to tell you that I cannot wait until you come to visit!  There is some seriously delicious meat here.  Every time I bite into a delectable slab I think of you.  I can't wait to meat-sweat with you :-)  I love you!

Arrivederci!  I will fill you in on more at a later time.  I have pasta about to boil over!  Ahh!!

Ciao!

Good news!  Rome is safe from vampires tonight.  The loads of garlic in the bolognese sauce should hold them off for a while.

I now sit in my room relaxing after spending time cooking, cleaning (Yes Dad I do clean), vampire fighting, and listening to some good ol' Sinatra in the kitchen. I love Rome already :-) 

Tonight for dinner:  Spaghetti Alla Bolognese (a white wine bolognese made with bacon and all sorts of other yummies), salad, and bread with dipping oil.  I could certainly get used to this whole cooking with all sorts of fresh (and cheap!) and beautiful fruits, meats, veggies, etc.

Jon-  I spotted a shelf the other day.  This shelf was a lot like the shelf we saw in London.  I wish I could show it to you, but unlike you I did not have my camera on me to take a picture.  It was a pretty good-sized one, too. You definitely would have been impressed.  You could easily set a pen on top of it without the pen dropping.  It was very impressive!  Jon, I think you should grow a unibrow to shelve a pen as well.  I mean think of all the benefits!  Show off that Jellinger brow! Jenny would love it I assure you. 

8~28

     It is 8 p.m. here in Rome.  I am now sitting in a room with all six of my apartment mates.  We all sit in our cozy little yellow living room with a glass of wine (some with an entire bottle) in hand.  We got to our apartment around 1 this afernoon and moved right in.  Our apartment has three rooms.  There are two 3-person rooms and one 1-person room.  There is also a kitchen, two bathrooms with showers, a balcony, and a foyer.  This place comes equipped with an ironing board, a washing machine, and towels.  I can already see myself calling this place a home.  The walls are all a warm tuscan yellow.  All the windows are decorated with nice floral or light green curtains.  The place is furnished with warm-colored wooden furniture and comfy couches. The floor is, again, the warm wooden floor.  Each room has some sort of artwork on the walls.  This place feels very homey and very classy.  It feels very....Italian :-) 

8-27

     Bongiorno bella Italia!

     I know Grandma Kennedy would love this right now-  sitting on a bench overlooking the cobalt blue ocean eating freshly picked strawberries.  These are the best strawberries I have ever eaten, and they are the reddest I have ever seen. Sitting here is such a treat after my day of speed walking around Levanto.  I made a poor life decision when I decided to bring Birkenstock flip-flops because my feet kill! 

     This morning I slept in until 9 and then went downstairs for my free breakfast consisting of a cappuccino and two rolls of bread with nutella.  When I went down, I met up with the other girls who were already finished eating.  They were planning out their day of going out to see other towns in Cinque Terre.  I brought up the idea of taking a ferry to get a view of the towns from the ocean.  Since it would end up costing about 5 Euros more, they chose to take a train instead.  I decided to stay back and explore more intently the town of Levanto, and let them head out to explore.  Plus, I just needed a mental health day to myself.

      It has been a fantastic day, but I had a scare that I lost my journal.  I realized this when I got back to my hostel after walking around town and around the village pretending to be Italian.  I then had to retrace my steps and go into each place I stopped to ask about my "book," which completely blew my Italian cover.  Oh well.  I eventually found my book at the first stop I made.  On the way back, I discovered a fresh food market where I picked up these strawberries.  Yum yum yum.

     You wouldn't believe the people watching here.  I am finally in a land of very few tourists and mostly Italians.  Every single person is tan.  Every single person also shows very much of this tan skin.  Needless to say, I don't stand out at all. :-/

     The swimmers on the beach provide for me the best people watching by far.  I have seen so many men in Speedos (mainly much much older men), and all women except a few wear bikinis.  The few not in bikinis wear nothing at all. (These women, too, are much much older.) 

     I was hit on by my first Italian last night.  He had white hair.  Guido senior.  End of story.

     Tomorrow I go to Roma.

     Ciao for now-a!

Later on 8-26...
I am now sitting in a train on my way to Cinque Terre.  I love this right now! Through the window I am greeted by gorgeous Italian hillside and neighborhoods.  I heard my first Italian accentfrom the ticket lady.  Ahh! So cool!

Even later -just switched trains-

     I love Italy already!  Right now a family is n the hallway trying to figure out their seat situation.  They are shouting and frustrated, yet they are smiling and joking around- What!?  I keep hearing them shout, "Veinti-uno, veinti-tre, bla de blassoo blada!"  Italian is so beautiful!  I love it! :-) 

     I just had my first cappuccino, too!  It came from a Lavazza machine, and it was so yummy!!!

Even more laterer...

     On the previous train, I sat with a Swiss man and an Italian man.  We had a lot of fun struggling o converse with one another.  The Swiss man is named Yanik and is from Bern.  He is going to school in Interlaken for male nursing.  I am so impressed with the many languages he is able to speak! He speaks German, Swiss-German, Croatian (his father is from Croatia), French, and English.  He told me about his travels all over Europe and his plans for the future.  He was so kind, and even offered to help with my heavy baggage.  I told him he did not have to help, but he insisted.  I then had absolutely no troubles geting my baggage on and off the train.  He is another angel to come into my European travels.  Not only did he help me, but he gave me the sweet sweet gift of fine Swiss chocolate.  :-)
     I cannot remember the Italian's name.  Even if I did, I would likely butcher it.  He spoke absolutely nothing but Italian.  His hand gestures and facial expression are what he used instead of words which was quite entertaining.  He offered both Yanik and me an energy drink.  First, he offered one to yanik, who declined the offer the first time, but accepted it the second time he was offered.  I, on the other hand, declined it twice, but then Yanik told me to accept it.  I think it must be some sign of disrespect in this culture to not accept something that is offered.  huh.  I am now one chocolate bar and energy drink (ew) richer than I was when I got on this train.  We parted ways, switched trains, and now I am sitting in a room with 4 women.  The two across from me are conversing in Italian.  I don't know what they're saying, but it is beautiful.  I am so excited to learn Italian.

     Anyhoots, I should fill you in on the goings on of yesterday.  I climbed a mountain, and the view was spectacular!  So many times I found myself stopping and standing utterly (because there were cows) in awe.  Beautiful!!!!!   The higher we went, the more phenomenal the view became.  After a good and sweaty workout of climbing the mountain, we ended up in the town of Wengen.  By the time we reached Wengen, the skies were gray and rain was a-pouring.  Heading back down the mountain was a cool, wet, and an easy trek.

I am passing by so many vineyards in this train.  AAAaaaahhh!!!  So so beautiful!

Night time:

     Cinque Terre is gorgeous at night.  Scratch that.  Cinque Terre is gorgeous.  Period.  I am now sitting on a ledge overlooking the ocean.  The waves make sailboats sway, and only a few people are out surfing.  I seem to have just missed sunset, so it is almost completely dark out.  Only a few lights shine to light up the buildings behind me.  Is this what Heaven is like?

 Mama-  I can only imagine sitting at a cafe enjoying a cappuccino with you in the morning.  I look forward to when you and Mike come visit so we can do that.  This will then, truly, be Heaven (minus all my other loved ones of course).

     And Cora- I have seen so many cats!  Every time I see one I think of you :-)  I  am so exciting for you to go to Eau Claire!  I hope move-in is going well and that your apartment and Eau Claire soon feel like home.  Love and hugs your way!

     Everyone- I love Italy, and I wish there could be a way to share my joy with you.   I know!  Do me a favor-  Go and get yourself an ice cream cone right now and savor every lick.  In a way, we are savoring Italy together.  I know this may make no sense.  Just know that as I write this I have a glass of wine in me.  Oh boy.  To end this entry, know that I share Italy with you in spirit(s).

8-26

     I do not want to leave Switzerland!  It is so beautiful here!  I mean, could anything be better than a lake set between white-peaked mountains, creamy Swiss chocolate, and people who love life?
     In Interlaken, people (visitors and locals) live life to the fullest and to the extreme. This is at least what I have noticed.  People do everything here- from flying like flying squirrels in flying squirrel suits to whitewater rafting to cliff jumping to cliff diving to climbing entire mountains to biking through rough terrain to paragliding.
     I went paragliding. :-)  Two days ago I went paragliding for my 21st birthday.  It was much better than getting drunk I can assure you.  It was definitely one of the greatest experiences of my life.
    I climbed into a van with seven other men and women. These men and women were from all over the globe. One of the women I spoke with was even from Denmark.  I told her my last name, and she recognized it as being a town in Denmark- Jellinge.  I'm famous!!! :-)
   The van continued to climb and climb the mountain.  I did not think it would ever stop!  The view from the van only became more spectacular the more we ascended the mountain.  When we reached our destination, we climbed out of the van, were given long backpacks to wear, and then we were assigned a pilot who wold end up taking off with us.  We then had to hike over a short hill to get to our are for take-off.  Eep!  It was so exciting!  On our walk, I learned my pilot is Jon's age (31) and has been paragliding for 14 years.  He also lives on the mountainside- not bad if I do say so myself!
     My pilot strapped me up, attached himself to me, told me to begin walking  He then told me to freeze.  And then we sprinted!  We sprinted into the air!  WE WERE OFF!  (I was surprised I wasn't more frightened than I was.  I must have had complete trust in the pilot, because the feeling was normal as I took off flying with him)
    I was flying.
    I was fying high.
    I looked down.  My feet were dangling free, and below me was a view I could not even dream of seeing.  I'll try my best to put it into words-
    I was in the midst of a valley surrounded by white-peaked mountains, trees seven stories high, two lakes the color of robin's eggs, an ancient building with a steeple peaking through the trees (this was a restaurant said my pilot).  The buildings below me looked like toys.  There is no way they were real.  The sun was shining.  The skies were blue.  While looking around at all this glory, my pilot was telling me to smile for pictures, and smile I sure did!
     Toward the end of the ride, he asked me if I would like a smooth landing or a "roller coaster" landing.  I felt better than ever, so I said, "bring on the 'roller coaster'!"  Soon I was twisting and turning through the air.  I felt my stomach leap like it does when I am on a roller coaster- hence the name haha.  The "roller coaster" was so much fun, and this is coming from a girl who doesn't even like going on rides.

8-24

     I am now in Switzerland. It is my 21st birthday, and I am about to go paragliding in the Swiss Alps. The rest of my group is going to go kayaking or something or another. I paraglide on my own today. Now I wait until my van comes to pick me up.....



Eeeeep!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday 8-23

     I am now sitting in a train on my way to Interlaken, Switzerland.  This is a six hour train ride, so I have quite some time to sit and be reflective.
     Yesterday was our last day in Paris.  Right after I wrote you last I had quite a fright!  I asked the information desk at the metro station for directions back to the hotel.  I followed the directions and ended up in a town where noone spoke English.  After asking about 6 or 7 people if they spoke English and could help me, I finally found someone.  She was an angel who made directions very clear.  She pointed to where I was on the map, and I learned I was in the complete opposite side of the city from where I wanted to be.  I then followed this angel's directions, but -silly me- I took the correct train, but I ended up going the wrong direction.  At the next stop, I got off to turn around.  At this stop, I made eye contact with a man.  I smiled at him.  He did not smile back in response, so I looked away.  After about a minute, I looked back at him only to see him staring at me- no smile, just a stern look in his eyes.  I smiled again, and he just glared back.  The train came and this guy was behind me.  To make sure he wasn't following me, I walked quickly to the other train car to be sure. 
     He followed.
     By this time I am completely freaked out. -Thank you so much Zach Boever for showing me the movie Taken :P-
     Since I knew this guy was no good (and maybe I was wrong, but I couldn't be sure) I had to get away.  I mean here I was all alone, lost, and in a whole new country.  No way was I going to be a target.  Bring it on Buddy!!!!
     To ease my anxiety (or paranoia), I jumped off the train a millisecond before the doors closed.  No way was he going to follow me now!  Ha! Sucker!  I then waited for the next train and was eventually back at the hotel safe and sound :-) 

    That night, the girls and I had a idea to picnic in front of the Eiffel tower at sunset with a bottle of wine and dinner. Once it would get really dark after eating, we would climb to the top.
     Our idea did not go according to plan.
     Instead of sharing one bottle, the girls decided to buy their own bottle. Each. I bought a small bottle and drank only a small glass of it.  The other girls, however, finished an entire bottle on their own.....:-/  Can you guess what hapened next?  Ding ding ding!  You are correct! Yep, instead of climbing the tower, we ended up caring for one of the girls who puked in front of the tower. 

It was a memorable day AND night.  Bonjour Paris!

Wednesday 8-22

     I am in Paris sitting in a pew of the Sacre Couer.  I'm surrounded by many lit candles, a high cieling, intricate pantings (much much much more intricate than in London), and flute music.  A young girl is playing "My Heart Will Go On" on her flute for money just outside the church.  So far, I like the feeling of Paris city better than London city.  It just feels cleaner and more open.  I dn't understand the language at all, so I don't feel as much like I am in a tourist destination.  The buildings in Paris are mostly off-white or tan which only adds to the cleanliness feeling.
     Let's see....To fill you in, yesterday we went to:
          ~the opera house where the Phantom resides from Phantom of the Opera
          ~Louvre Art Museum (It was closed, so I couldn't go in)
          ~Champs de Elisee
     I've passed by a couple street musicians today.  There was an accordion player and a saxophone player ~ So sweet!!!!!
    
     As far as the language barrier goes, charades has saved me :-)

     Later today....
     The girls are headed back to the hostel to nap and change clothes.  They insisted that I go to the Louvre, since I really wanted to yesterday when it was closed.  It's true that I did really want to, but by the time they left I was so exhausted I needed a break.  Instead of heading straight to the Louvre, I walked a block to one of the gardens we passed through.  All I have wanted to do all day is stop and smell these roses. I mean that in both the figurative and literal sense.  I am currently sitting in a chair  next to an artist.  She is painting this glorious scene in front of me -yellow roses, yellow black-eyed susans, and yellow daisies.  I appreciate her.  She really knows how to stop and smell the roses.  I love this fellow artist.  I love that she appreciates the beauty around her-   it is rare to meet people like her.  She and I have not spoken a word, since she knows no English, but we have smiled.  I have pointed and gave her a thumbs up.  It was a great conversation :-)
     Man, it is truly beauiful here, and the people watching is once again phenomenal.  I've seen all types of people- angry, happy, rich, poor, artsy, conservative, fanny-packed, birkenstocked-socked, etc.  Here I have found another Heaven on Earth.  Laura, come back here.  This is one of your Heavens.